The Custom Kitchen

The shameful part is the decidedly lacking collection of before pictures to go along with the after pictures of this awesome undertaking.  What started as a simple tile back splash installation turned into a fabulous custom job.  

Before the alteration, there was no back splash, save the counters edge which arched up and backed the wall.  The kitchen was lit from the middle of the room, by one large fluorescent tube fixture, housed up inside the ceiling, behind two thin plastic sheets which were surrounded by cheap metal framing.  The light switch/outlet plates were run of the mill plastic covers

The project originally called for the installation of a tile back splash, borders and mass produced switch/outlet covers.  As for the one light fixture, a wooden frame was to replace the metal frame and softer lighting would be installed.  Recessed lighting would be placed over the counter to supply work areas with much needed illumination.  

The purchased back splash ended up being beautiful 2" x 2" slate tiles in many different, rich but subtle earth tones.  They were sold positioned and attached on 12" sheets cutting labor time in half.  The chosen end borders are narrow but substantial, diamond studded pewter liner tile trim pieces with a pretty antique finish.  The electric covers began as brushed metal plates.  More on that later.

The inset fluorescent tubes were removed and replaced with track lighting now controlled by a dimmer switch.  The wooden frame was, at first, going to be purchased but became a custom job made with birch wood, cut using a radial arm saw and stained with a natural pigment.  The plastic covers were replaced with thin plexiglas sheets which were decorated with translucent, self adhesive, wisteria vine window decorations, giving it the appearance of stained glass.  Four, recessed, brushed chrome,  4" mini eye ball light fixtures were situated above the counter where their beam can be manually positioned to brighten up anywhere you might be needing their attention.

Once the tile and trim was set, the brushed silver switch/outlet covers were the last items to situate.  They ended up being thinner than expected and to have them fit correctly, gang box extenders would have been needed.  It was discussed, matching custom slate plates were offered and gladly accepted.  6" matching slate tiles were obtained to make the covers.  Measurements were taken and then, using a 24" wet tile bridge saw, they were cut down to size and the edges were beveled.  Due to the delicate nature of slate, an extremely gentle touch was applied with a dremel to hollow out the appropriate shapes needed in each cover.

This kitchen is an ongoing project so please take that into account when viewing the following slideshow.   You'll notice the ceiling still needs to be textured and painted.  Everything is coming out so well that it is considered "blog worthy" regardless.

Upgrade: Bathroom Floor

This job entailed removing the bathroom linoleum and carpet flooring and replacing it with 12" x 12" tile.  

The first step was to measure the entire square footage of the area to be retiled and attain the materials needed to complete the job.  10% was added to the amount of tile needed as there were a lot of corners which result in multiple cuts, sometimes to the same tile.   Tiles were cut on a wet saw.

Demolition was next.  This included removing the old linoleum and carpet by peeling it off the floor.  To ensure an even surface, the excess glue and backing of the linoleum was scraped off along with any left over carpet padding and adhesive.  Any small particles that remained were swept up and discarded leaving the floor ready for the application of the mortar.  

As it is very important to keep everything symmetrical and even, the tiling should be started from the area which will be viewed the most.  In this case, the main concerns were against the tub and the end of the hallway that is viewed from the only entrance, as in this specific bathroom, they were the places most likely to be noticed.  

The first line of tile was measured out from both sides of the wall, a chalk line was snapped to help keep the tiles straight and then the tiles were dry fitted starting in the middle.  Once the measurements proved to be accurate and the layout was true, the mortar was mixed.  Applying the mortar to no more than one or two tiles at a time, the fresh flooring was put into place and left to dry.  All excess mortar was wiped up so it would not dry onto anything that it should not be permanently on.

Once the mortar was dry, walking upon the tile was acceptable and the grout was applied.  The grout was left to harden overnight.  Sealant was applied the next day, completing the job.